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1983 Caprice Classic, 305, mileage: 103,000, power windows, locks, and seat work.
The car has been in my family since 1985 and 15,000 miles. The car has not been driven since Nov. ‘07.
Cragar SS 15x7 all around with Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires (235/60 front, 275/60 rear) One front and one rear tire are about 50%, the other two are nearly new (they had to be replaced due to damage and a manufacturing defect). The Cragars have not been run in the winter, but are on the car. One wheel has some small speckles of tarnish/rust - barely noticeable when clean, the other 3 look fine. They all clean up very nicely.
Carpeting is soiled, seats in very good condition - very little wear in either. Dash has the typical cracks. The Mylar on the fake chrome door trim is peeling. Foam inside of the front armrests has the typical dry-rot. You can see some of the interior in the video link below. My son removed his CD player and speakers, but I have the original radio and speakers which will be include but not installed.
Tailpipe and Flowmaster Delta 50 were about 1 ½ years old, and the exhaust pipe from cat to muffler was replaced a couple weeks before we had to park the car.
AC has been converted and was charged and worked great last summer(’07), heat works great, power locks work but the right door switch is loose, power windows work but the left driver window comes out of track when raised – it needs a new guide at least. Apparently there is a way to adjust the mechanism holding the glass to keep it from popping out as it does but I never got inside to check that out. I had some carb work done last summer(’07) and the car was running great until the rod knock started in October. Power antenna does not work.
The transmission (700R4) was replaced with a rebuilt one in the fall of ’06. So, the tranny should be good for a long time. New u-joints shortly before that.
I replaced the headliner but in a darker gray than original.
Body is in great condition with just the typical rust at the inside bottoms of the doors.
When it’s clean, the paint looks very nice from 15 feet away but does have a lot of “water spots” on the top surfaces. Sides shine nicely but have some blemishes, nicks etc. but no rust. You can get a good idea of the finish in the videos. I’m rather critical of the paint but when clean the car did look impressive going down the road! This is the original paint aside from a rear quarter panel that was scratched about 15 years ago pulling in to the garage. There are lots of water marks, small scratches and nicks, and buffing marks etc. in the paint so expect to re-paint the car if you want it to look sweet up close.
Rubber bumper inserts were replaced with NOS (getting hard to find).
The car has been parked and not started since late November ’07. The engine probably has a spun rod bearing and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. (A verbal estimate from my mechanic put the repair cost at $600 - 800) I have not started the car since Nov ‘07. The battery is now no longer charged.
This car was kept in a garage until 2000. No known accidents unless they occurred before 1985 when my father bought the car.
These two videos are of the engine noise:
http://www.vimeo.com/380539
http://www.vimeo.com/380374
These videos show the general condition of the interior/exterior:
http://www.vimeo.com/619611
http://www.vimeo.com/1545733
http://www.vimeo.com/1546227 (the light lines on the side are primer and wax residue showing where side moldings were removed - some paint came off with the molding)
You can see more pictures of the car here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dksickinger55/83Caprice#
Use the magnifier for more detail.
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FINANCIAL TERMS
Please read and understand this before bidding.
I have tried to provide a thorough, honest listing of the car, but it is sold ‘as is, where is’ with no guarantee expressed or implied. The buyer is responsible for picking up the car or making shipping arrangements. I can keep the car where it is now for a couple months if you need that much time to pick it up. The buyer should expect to tow/trailer away the car . Once the sale is final the buyer is welcome to try to start the car and drive it away but I do not know if the car will start. I have chosen not the run the car and risk throwing a rod and therefore totally ruining the engine.
A $100 deposit is required within 2 days of the close of the auction.
THIS DEPOSIT IS NON-REFUNDABLE.
PayPal is preferred.
The balance of the sale price is due in 14 days. If you wish, you may have a mechanic (at your expense) examine the car prior to taking delivery. The purchase price of the car - LESS THE NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT - will be returned up to 45 days after the auction close if you decide, for any reason, not to buy the car. I will sign the title over to the buyer at any time after full payment is made; however, NO REFUND WILL BE MADE AFTER THE TITLE IS SIGNED. When I sign the title over to the buyer the sale is final. I will sign the title and mail it to you after full payment is made or sign it when you take delivery - that is totally up to the buyer’s choice.
But remember, when you ask me to sign the title the sale is final. Why? Simply because I don't want the hassle of correcting the title if a buyer backs out.
If the winning bidder does not honor the financial terms the car will be relisted.
[Refund examples: You pay me $1000 for the car, decide you don’t want it, I give you back $900. You pay me $16000 (yeah, right!), decide you don’t want it, I sadly give you back $15900.]
These terms seem pretty clear to me but if you have any questions please ask.
The car is also being offered for sale locally so the auction will be cancelled if I agree to a local sale.
The starting bid was set to reflect local ‘scrap value’. Although, as you can see, this car should be preserved and enjoyed, it wouldn’t make much sense for me to sell it for less than scrap value.
Thank you.
Bid Often - Bid High (but don’t bid $16000 - I’m not greedy)
MORE PICTURES HERE:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dksickinger55/83Caprice#
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